All Things ah-BEETZ with New Haven’s Pizza Expert, Colin Caplan

Did you know? One of your neighbors is a certified apizza historian, and he’s sharing the secret sauce. Colin Caplan, owner of Taste of New Haven, has written six books on New Haven history and produced an entire apizza documentary called Pizza, a love story. His latest book, Pizza in New Haven, traces the history of our city’s most distinctive dish, which in recent months has been featured in The New York Times and The New Yorker. 

As Caplan puts it, “Pizza in New Haven is the culmination of over 140 years of Italian cultural and culinary influence in this storied Yankee industrial city. The same coal that supplied the world with New Haven’s factory fare cooked the delectable pizza that fed mill workers, produce farmers, politicians, college students and townies of every color, creed and carriage alike. New Haven’s historic pizzerias dominate the city’s food landscape and attract hungry and curious visitors from around the globe looking to satisfy their quest for what is unequivocally the greatest food to ever be made.”

In honor of National Pizza Month, Caplan sat down with the team at Market New Haven to discuss all things apizza, including the cardinal sin of pizza eating. Spoiler: it’s ranch dressing. 

When did your journey with apizza begin? Tell us about how you got here. 

“I live, breathe, and sleep apizza! According to legend, I was weaned with pizza as a baby here in New Haven. When I moved away for college in New Orleans, I learned that other places just don’t make the level of pizza that’s made here. Years ago, I moved away to Los Angeles and finally realized that one of my true loves in the world is New Haven apizza. Ever since then I have made my career around pizza; touring, teaching, eating, talking, producing, making & sharing.”

What makes New Haven apizza special? 

“Apizza is special because it’s a hand crafted food made from the original family recipes that were brought over with immigrants from Italy over 100 years ago. Apizza is all about simple ingredients that merge in the oven to make a masterpiece. It’s food alchemy.”

What are the do’s and don’ts of apizza? 

“Do start simple. Order a plain tomato pie with grated cheese and garlic. That’s how you can truly taste the crust and the sauce, which is what apizza really is all about. Then you can take the next steps and try mozzarella, then one or two toppings, or switch it up and order a New Haven original like the white clam pie or mashed potato pie. For reheating slices, cooking directly on a skillet or pan with a lid is best, followed by a move to the oven on a tray to maintain the crisp of the crust.”

“Don’t ever order an underdone apizza. We love char because it’s full of fire-licked flavor. Never order more than three toppings unless it’s listed as a special, as that can create a crust failure. Never eat apizza right when it gets out of the oven, unless you want to burn your mouth, thus tainting the next slices. Never, under any circumstances, microwave leftover apizza – unless you want to make a pancake out of it.”

How do you take your pie?  Let’s talk toppings.

“When it comes to apizza, I am a simpleton, a purist. I like plain tomato pies with garlic because it preserves all the flavors and textures I have grown to enjoy. That said, adding mozzarella cheese can add that buttery, salty layer, and create a foundation for a great apizza. There are great topping combos I have found, which I am happy to share with my fellow apizza enthusiasts.”

Red pies:

• Grated cheese, anchovies, garlic
• Grated cheese, hot peppers, sausage
• Mozzarella & grated cheese, eggplant, onion
• Mozzarella & grated cheese, bacon, onion

White pies:

• Grated cheese, onions, broccoli
• Grated cheese, broccoli rabe, garlic
• Grated cheese, tuna (yup), onion, hot peppers

Pineapple on pizza? 

“NO.”

Is dipping apizza in ranch a cardinal sin?

“Dipping apizza in ranch – hell, even having ranch at the table within a slice’s length from the pizza – is punishable by solitary confinement from apizza for a year on a ranch somewhere, questionable looks from local New Haveners, and the ultimate punishment…The sinner must eat a raw onion anytime they think of apizza.” 

Best way to eat a slice?

“Slight fold if needed, but directly to the face.”

Be honest – is New Haven’s apizza better than New York’s pizza?

“Honestly, there is no contest, the show’s over. New Haven takes bronze, silver and gold.”

If a visitor wanted to do a solo “pizza crawl”,  what would be your advice to them? 

“A solo pizza tour can be planned ahead of time to beat most of the lines. Block off a weekend and stay at the Pizza Palace themed Airbnb on State Street near Modern Apizza. On Saturday, start at Sally’s Apizza in the center of New Haven’s Little Italy at 11 AM to beat the lines. Then, walk to Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana, the granddaddy of New Haven apizza, where there may be a line, but shouldn’t be too long by 12:30 PM. Finally, head across the street to Zeneli Pizzeria for Neapolitan pizza.”

“On Sunday, start at Modern Apizza, one of the Holy Trinity of New Haven pizzerias, at 3 PM to beat the lines. Then, head across the street to Michelina’s Apizza for wood fired apizza, and finish off at Next Door just a couple blocks away for distinctive New Haven style apizza.”

If you want to learn more about New Haven’s apizza expert Colin Caplan, check out his documentary, Pizza, A Love Story, or check out his book, Pizza in New Haven.  Follow Colin @tasteofnewhaven on Instagram.